Author Topic: Spoke tension, according to Brandt  (Read 554 times)

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Wraith Rider

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #30 on: July 29, 2010, 10:31:15 AM »
Nice wheel to wheel consistency on the fronts!

That explains the poor track record that I've had with the fronts.  It only takes a couple hundred miles to get pinging spokes.
Dennis T (aka Trsnrtr)

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motoidaho

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #31 on: July 29, 2010, 10:49:19 AM »
After reading a spoke tension thread on the Catrike board, this really smart guy over there has me convinced to loosen my spokes, with maybe every 5th one really lose.  Just KIDDING!  But the discussion by you wise ones makes me wonder if my 2.5 year old wheels should be checked for spoke tension.  Is this something I would do by the "tuning fork" test, by a tool made for the purpose, or take it to the LBS, with the third option scaring the heck out of me unless I can tell them a specific tension. 

I can true a wheel on 70s ear road bikes, does that mean I should try to mess with spoke tension on trike wheels?  I just used a nipple wrench for that, not a tensionometer. 

What do you recommend as good spoke tension for a Speed used for commuting, ridden every day, with a 35 mph downhill stretch with a few curves and turns, the rest straight and fast, with a big uphill finish?  And should I buy a tensionometer and get to tinkering?   
2008 Catrike Speed
1973 Motobecane Grand Record

Hipster

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #32 on: July 29, 2010, 11:17:50 AM »
Nice wheel to wheel consistency on the fronts!
He says voice dripping with irony, his face lit with a decidedly wry grin!
Gregory

Proud owner of a growing trike fleet:
Catrike Expedition CTE1321, Roads CTR918 & CTR1278, ICE Explorer, Rans Trizard, Terra Trike Cruiser (+ a few bents/CFs: Barcroft Virginia Ti, RR Mach 2, Rans SXP, Tailwind, Street & Cruz)

trikebldr

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #33 on: July 29, 2010, 11:26:10 AM »
John, you had BETTER be kidding!!! Jim, those heels are junk! Did you readSheldon's comments about consistency? He says (using the Park guage) that you must interpolate between the lines and keep a single wheel less than 1/4 mark difference. Your's are as much as 4-5 marks difference. Those wheels need to be dismantled and start over. 167 to 266 is not acceptable.

As far as being the devil's advocate, I love it! One difference is that Elso did start out telling the guy that loose spokes are the way, with no caveat. I just wanted to be sure that somebody doesn't take my HS numbers as the gospel for all. Not every riding style needs these numbers.

Moto, if I were you I would take them to about 190lbs. And, yes, get the Park tensiometer. Also, get the four-sided spoke wrenches if you want to safely obtain the higher numbers, like 190+lbs. I can't figure out how Jim Aliano is getting 300lbs on a spoke! I had a hard tiime reaching 209 on HS.
Bruce

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John Rooker

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #34 on: July 29, 2010, 11:59:43 AM »
Bruce, yes..I was joking.  Forgot to add the smiley so I edited it in.


To me, this points out a rather serious problem with Catrike wheels.  They are obviously receiving them from the supplier and just packing them with the trikes with no QC other than maybe a visual to make sure they resemble round.  Wheels this far out of whack are well beyond the average rider's ability to remedy and it is obvious that very few, if any, of the dealers are checking the wheels before they leave. 

Garys trike and my wife's trike came from the same shop, only a couple weeks apart.  I have yet to do an indepth check of the wheels, but checking every other outside spoke on the two trikes shows a very big difference in tension.  OK, the trikes are 2 years old, but Gary's is closer to spec than Lin's and his has many more miles on it, so the inconsistency is in the supplied wheels. 

I wonder how many way to flexy 700 wheels are out there on Cat 700's? 

This leads me to one more "suggestion"..

I like the fact that Big Cat is offering a choice of components this year, why not take it one step further and offer a choice of a custom, hand built wheel set?  Heck TerraTrike offers hand built Velocity wheels on a few of their models as standard spec.   

jimali

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #35 on: July 29, 2010, 12:13:01 PM »
I can't figure out how Jim is getting 300lbs on a spoke! I had a hard tiime reaching 209 on HS.

I dinn't do nothin' !     those are stock wheel out of the box.
Jim
'09 Speed CS933
'05 Speed CS383
Vision R32 (FOR SALE)
GIRO 20 ATT

trplay

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #36 on: July 29, 2010, 01:38:03 PM »
After being entertained by this thread for the last few days I've got a few questions that I  will most likely regret asking.  Since its obvious Catrike wheels are so out of spec they are sure to result in failure how many have we actually witnessed?  The other question that comes to mind is are Walmart wheels the best in the world?  I ask because of the number of wheels they put on the street vs the ratio of failed wheels that occur under probably the most abusive rider care of all the cycling world is very low.  And finally world class rider Danny MacAskil  where he beats his wheel back to round in the video  begs the question how close to  perfect does one actually have to be?  Geez I love that video!

Inspired Bicycles - Danny MacAskill April 2009

devious56

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #37 on: July 29, 2010, 06:30:37 PM »
In the bike shop, we see a lot of the Wal-Mart type bikes come and go, and most have wheels that really wobble. 

And let me say that when I got my 2008 Expedition, after Larry Varney was done test riding it, well, I got it Saturday after the rally and took it back to the motel, took my stuff off my Road and put it on the Expo ready for the Sunday ride out of Hampton's Edge.  Sunday morning rolling out of the Central Motel parking lot, it sounded like I was sitting on a popcorn machine.  Stopped in the parking lot and adjust the spokes on all three wheels, but primarily the fronts.    My wifes Trail needed the wheels trued out of the box.  I'm surprised that Catrike lets them out of the factory like that, and that their dealers (some of them anyway, my Speed from Mark Powers was right on) don't take care of it before letting them out of their shop.

David
Catrike Speed (CT-1020)
Specialized Tarmac Pro
Motobecane Le Champion Team

"If I were not a man, I would like to be a bird.
As I am a man, I do the next best thing, and ride a bicycle."

trplay

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #38 on: July 29, 2010, 08:05:00 PM »
"In the bike shop, we see a lot of the Wal-Mart type bikes come and go, and most have wheels that really wobble. "

That quote is a surprise, I would have thought they all really wobble, so they are even better than I thought.  When speaking of potential wheel failure  in this thread does one mean wheel wobble or a collapse of the wheel?  My underlying question is has this thread set the engineering standard so precise 95 percent of the wheels in the riding world do not meet it? I mean really, Danny  beat the hail out of his wheel with a board ( as opposed to a tensionometer) and then took it through more torture in two minutes than any of my wheels will see in a lifetime. 

devious56

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #39 on: July 29, 2010, 08:09:23 PM »
I don't believe he is really concerned whether that wheel is actually round or not, just strong enough to support his misuse of it.

Truely an amazing rider.

David
Catrike Speed (CT-1020)
Specialized Tarmac Pro
Motobecane Le Champion Team

"If I were not a man, I would like to be a bird.
As I am a man, I do the next best thing, and ride a bicycle."

trikebldr

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2010, 12:45:19 AM »
Trplay, some basics of wheel/spoke loading have to be well understood before analysing what that BMX guy is doing to his wheels. If he has better rims, and doesn't ride thousands of miles on those wheels, they will never fail him, loose or tight. If a spoke breaks at the hub, it is too loose. If the spoke is too loose, the spoke will continually flex at it's 90deg angle when it loads and unloads as the wheel turns, and just like when you keep bending a tin can it will crack and break. If it is tight enough, it won't keep flexing like that. That's why loose spokes break at the hub end. When a wheel fails because a nipple pulls through the rim, it is because it was too tight for THAT rim. Probably a cheap rim, too!

That BMX guy simply bent the rim by hooking it on those fence spikes as he fell of the fence sideways. Almost any wheel can be put back into serviceable shape by stomping it! But it won't be perfect or pretty! Also, he is not subjecting those wheels to as much SIDE loading as we do in a hard corner (I know I will take flak for that comment!!!), especially if you weigh over 200lbs. That video is a good example of just how strong wheels are in radial loading. 

Tennbent is here and we have been discussing this thread and spokes, as well as playing with his Baron's chainline. This morning we wanted to check the consistency of the spokes on all of my wheels and his. I must make a public apology to Jim Aliano for my comment about "junk" in regards to his wheel figures. My original reading of 209lbs was for just one spoke on HS. My right hand wheel on HS was reasonably consistent and tight, but the left wheel was all over the higher end of the spectrum, ranging from 180lbs to over 400lbs! Why? Because it is the wheel that gets leaned on the most when I bicycle HS! Bottom line is that the wheel is still straight and true! Stresses have obviouly redistributed the spoke loading, but they were all tight enough to not let the rim move even with different loading. This is a new one on me, but now I have to redo that wheel!

When I read the one spoke at 209lbs, I thought it was a bit low for what I normally use. I don't usually bother with actual "pounds" numbers, but just go by the Park meter's numbers. It read 23, which is 95Kgf=209lbs.  Normally, I run them up to about 26, which is about 300lbs. So, that one spoke may have met with Sheldon's recommendations (200lbs), but not for my wheels for trike use.

Also, on the Cat forum, Elso said that Mark told him to use 110lbs as a target figure. As Hippy said, that is for sure a mistake. It should read 110Kgf (kilograms of force), which is 242lbs of tension! This would be consistent with the rear wheel he made for me last year.

The rear wheel on my Slingshot measured from a number 8 on the meter (not even on the chart) to about 21=167lbs. Both on the drive side! Wheel is straight as an arrow.

The point to be made here is that wheel building, truing, spokes and tensioning are all part of a very complex formula to make a good, strong, long-lasting wheelset. It takes tons of patience and practice after reading a lot of the basics. Until you have successfully built a wheel from scratch, it is hard to understand what is gong on with them. Until you do understand those basics, understanding why a Walmart special can withstand a plunge from a roof top into a driveway with no broken spokes, and a Mark Power-built wheel will fail after 10,000 miles of riding along the beach, will be hard!

Other than being crushed or material failures, there are three main ways a wheel fails. First is that the head of a spoke breaks off at the hub after running loose for a long time. Second is that the nipple pulls through the rim hole. Third is if the threads on the nipple pull out. The last one is pretty rare, but the first one is the most common. 

Discussing why incorrect toe-in will wear out tires is easy to understand, but, without a proper background of reading the basics and hands-on practicing, wheelbuilding and proper spoke tension are not. A lot of the charts and other diagrams in Jobst's book make my eyes glaze over, but the sections about the basic principles are a good place to start to grow your undertstanding of what is going on and why. Trying to discuss such a complex subject on a forum with words only, and no illustrations, or hand gestures, makes it even harder! And FRUSTRATING!
« Last Edit: July 30, 2010, 12:59:17 AM by trikebldr »
Bruce

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Wraith Rider

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #41 on: July 30, 2010, 06:52:29 AM »
I learned with the Brandt book back in the early 80s.  The trick is to skip the theory and go straight to the technique.  :D

I asked my LBS super wheel builder yesterday what tension he took my wheels to last week and he said "Tensionometer?  I guess we could check them if you brought them back in but after a few thousand wheels, I think I have it figured out.  <big grin>"

He did say they are extremely tight.  ;)
Dennis T (aka Trsnrtr)

09 700, 06 Fujin SL-II, 07 Velokraft VK2 and another 4 or so...

jimali

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #42 on: July 30, 2010, 07:27:52 AM »
I asked my LBS super wheel builder yesterday what tension he took my wheels to last week and he said "Tensionometer?  I guess we could check them if you brought them back in but after a few thousand wheels, I think I have it figured out.  <big grin>"

He did say they are extremely tight.  ;)

I'm afraid that that's where we'll end up here.  Every builder has his/her tension, by touch, by feel,  by preference, whatever, and no one has hard numbers.  We'll get ranges, at best, and those ranges will run the gamut from loosey goosey to overwrought.  Even with a number, or range, for guidelines  you cannot just bring a spoke up to a given number because a wheel is an integrated machine with a balance to maintain and you have to dance around spoke tension while you dance around the balance.
Jim
'09 Speed CS933
'05 Speed CS383
Vision R32 (FOR SALE)
GIRO 20 ATT

Wraith Rider

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #43 on: July 30, 2010, 07:42:19 AM »
I asked my LBS super wheel builder yesterday what tension he took my wheels to last week and he said "Tensionometer?  I guess we could check them if you brought them back in but after a few thousand wheels, I think I have it figured out.  <big grin>"

He did say they are extremely tight.  ;)

I'm afraid that that's where we'll end up here.  Every builder has his/her tension, by touch, by feel,  by preference, whatever, and no one has hard numbers.  We'll get ranges, at best, and those ranges will run the gamut from loosey goosey to overwrought.  Even with a number, or range, for guidelines  you cannot just bring a spoke up to a given number because a wheel is an integrated machine with a balance to maintain and you have to dance around spoke tension while you dance around the balance.

My wheel guy also told me that he had three different tension devices and all three yielded different values.  I think the trick is that an undished wheel needs to be uniformly tensioned and tensioned enough to resist loosening.

The "expert" in question on the other board seems intent on determining the minimum value.  Why, I have no idea.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2010, 07:44:06 AM by Wraith Rider »
Dennis T (aka Trsnrtr)

09 700, 06 Fujin SL-II, 07 Velokraft VK2 and another 4 or so...

jimali

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Re: Spoke tension, according to Brandt
« Reply #44 on: July 30, 2010, 08:14:35 AM »
I think the trick is that an undished wheel needs to be uniformly tensioned and tensioned enough to resist loosening.


That's getting awfully close to what the big E is preaching !
"just enough to resist loosening"
Jim
'09 Speed CS933
'05 Speed CS383
Vision R32 (FOR SALE)
GIRO 20 ATT